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11. Honolulu Academy of Art

The Honolulu Academy of Art located cater-corner from the Academy Art Center is the location of the most prominent local and national exhibits of arts and crafts in Hawaii. Because of the large trees that shade the front of building, it's a little difficult to get a good photo of this building, but its solid front facade and steep (for Hawaii) roof with old mission tile make it particularly remarkable. Like the Academy Art Center, it faces Thomas Square that we'll visit next.

The Academy of Art was founded by Anna Rice Cooke in 1927. Anna and her husband lived in a home on the present site. When their private art collection outgrew their home, together with their daughters in 1922, they began the process of cataloging the collection and obtaining a charter for a public museum to showcase it. Along with an endowment to support the museum, they donated their land, and the present museum building was designed and constructed. The opening of the museum resulted in gifts of many additional art works and collections. In 1956, a library was added. An educational wing was added in 1960, a cafe in 1969, and a contemporary gallery, offices, and a theater in 1977. Construction is now underway on the Luce Pavilion Complex for an expanded cafe and museum shop and for a two-story exhibition facility.

The Academy of Art now houses more than 33,700 works of art. Until the recent opening of the Hawaii State Art Museum, it was the only general fine arts museum in Hawaii, the only Hawaii museum accredited by the American Association of Museums, and today one of the finest museums in the United States. The building is designated a National and State Historical site. It was named the state's best building by the Hawaii Chapter of the American Institute of Architects.

12. Hawaii State Capitol

The state capitol facing Beretania Street was built in 1965-69 after four years of design work by architect John Carl Warnecke of San Francisco. This is no domed Roman or Greek Revival building, but rather it is a refreshingly contemporary building, just as the State itself was only six years old when construction began. Numerous houses, businesses, a church occupied by an automobile dealership, and most of Miller Street were sacrificed for the building and grounds which occupy the width of two city blocks. Historic Iolani Barracks that we'll see in a few minutes was moved to the Iolani Palace gounds.

The capitol building is much larger that it appears at first. The Chamber Level with two large legislative chambers is underground, one chamber on each side. And out of view from the ground is the Executive Level at the top. It sets back from the outer edge to provide open space for trees and flowers nearly 100 feet above the ground. The governor and lieutenant governor have suites on this level. Also unseen from street level is an expanse of parking with an accessway under Beretania Street.

At the Entry Level, actually well above ground level, there is an open court with a 600,000-piece mosaic in the middle of the floor. A statue of Father Damien stands at the Beretania entrance and looks toward Molokai. At each side of the court is a public gallery where 180 people in each can view legislative proceedings on the lower level. The galleries have exterior walls that slope inward toward the top to resemble Hawaii's volcanoes. Outside of the gallery walls and surrounding most of the building are four pools occupying 80,000 square feet (almost two acres) to represent the sea that surrounds our island state.

Above the Entry Level is the Semate Level, and above that is a level of smaller offices for members of the House of Representatives and other government officials. The next level, the one that projects outward and resembles a crown, also contains offices for House members and others. It is supported by tall columns that in their detail and especially their flaring at the top depict royal palm trees that in Hawaii lined the approaches to prominent buildings, just as they line the entrance drive at Iolani Palace that we'll see in just a few minutes.

The capitol originally cost a little more than $24,500,000, including furnishings and artwork. About 25 years after it was built, more than $60,000,000 more was spent on repairs and refurbishing.

13. Capitol Memorial

Directly across Beretania Street from the front of the capitol is a memorial dedicated to "the men and women of the State of Hawaii who have served in the armed forces of the United States." Royal palms both sides of the approach. Flanking the memorial are ramps that lead downward to the parking under Beretania Street and the capitol grounds.

14. Washington Place

It's a little difficult to see because of the tall hedge and large shade the trees that keep the building dark most of the day, but across from the state capitol and ahead just a little farther is Washington Place. Originally in 1846 the mansion was the home of a Boston merchant and his family. The merchant was lost at sea soon after moving in, but his son grew up to marry King Kalakaua's sister. Taking the name Liliuokalani, Kalakaua's sister assumed the throne after his death, her husband died soon after, and she was bequeathed the mansion. Upon being deposed in 1893 to bring an end to the monarchy, she took up residence at Washington Place. She died in 1917, and in 1922 the mansion became the official residence of Hawaii's governors. Governor Benjamin Cayetano, the state's fourth governor since statehood and the nation's first governor of Phillippino ancestry, now lives here with his family. Linda Lingle, the State's first female governor and the first Republican governor in 40 years, will take office in December of this year.

15. Beretania Street at Richards

This is a view straight ahead from Beretania Street. Century Square is the tall office building sheathed in glass. It's right about here on Beretania that we'll turn left and head toward King Street where Iolani Palace is located. Before we do, though, lets take a look at St. Andrew's Cathedral on Beretania just to our right.
16. St. Andrews Cathedral

The origin of St. Andrew's Cathedral is rooted in Kamehameha IV's initiative in 1859 to establish an Anglican faith in Hawaii to counter the overbearing influence of the American puritanical missionaries and businessmen. In 1862 an Anglican contingent settled in Honolulu. It wasn't until after Kamehameha's death on St. Andrew's Day, however, that his wife, Queen Emma, would travel to England in 1864 and raise money for the cathedral building project to begin.

Sandstone blocks that served as ballast on English ships sailing to Honolulu were used to construct the cathedral. Kamehameha V laid the cornerstone in 1867, but it wasn't until 1882 that the first English sandstones were set. Four years later the choir and part of the nave were completed. At the same time, ties with the Anglican Church were severed and the church became a diocese of the Protestant Episcopal Church. Six years later two bays were added to the nave. Four years after that the tower was added. With the addition of two more bays, the vestibules, the narthex, and the "great west window," the cathedral was completed in 1958, 91 years after the cornerstone had been laid

The cathedral is now an active parish church of the Episcopal Diocese of Hawaii.

17. No. 1 Capitol District Building

This building is on the site of the original wood-frame Royal Hawaiian Hotel built in 1872. Close to Iolani Palace, it was used by friends and guests of the royal family. The hotel was purchased by the Army and Navy YMCA in 1917, and between 1926 and 1928 it was replaced by the current building styled after the Davanzatti Palace in Florence, Italy. Throughout World War II it was used as housing for the U.S. military. In 1978 the building was designated a National Historical Site, and in 1989 it was given its current name. For quite a few years it has been used as a state office building, and in late 2000 it was purchased by the state.

In November of 2002 the Hawaii State Art Museum on the first and second floors was opened to the public. On display are artworks purchased by the state since 1967 when the Art-in-State-Buildings law was passed. The first of its kind in the U.S., the law required that one percent of the construction cost of state buildings be set aside for works of art to be displayed in public places. The statuary, mosaic work, tapestries, and elaborate chandeliers at the State Capitol visited a couple of stops ago were purchased with money from this art fund. The law has now been copied by nearly half of all states in the U.S. Hawaii's collection now includes more than 5,000 pieces, and the 360 works on display in the museum were selected from this collection.

These images are from the Grand Opening of the State Art Museum November 3, 2002. (1) The grounds in front of the museum where displays, performances, and demonstrations were held. (2) A performance by the Iona Contemporary Dance Theater group. (3) A view of the entrance on the day of the Grand Opening. Activities covered the museum grounds and the State Capitol Building grounds across the street, streets were closed to traffic, tables were set up up on the streets, nearby Washington Place and other buildings and galleries were opened specially for the public, people toured the museum, and about 350 volunteers served about 10,000 visitors. A 35-year dream had finally come true.

The museum is open Tuesday through Saturday (except holidays) from 10:00 am to 4:00 pm. Guided tours are available at 10:00 am and 2:00 pm. More information is available at the web site of the State Foundation on Culture and the Arts.

18. Iolani Palace

Back to back with the modern state capitol is Iolani Palace, the only authentic royal palace in the United States. Built between 1879 and 1882 by King Kalakaua after a visit to the United States where he saw the White House and other impressive buildings in New York City, it was intended to replace a single-story wood frame house that had served five kings for something like 34 years. Thatched roof buildings were torn down to make way for the grandest building in Hawaii. It turned out to be twice as large as anyone beside the king had dreamed, and it cost an exorbitant $350,000, including furnishings.

In 1883 King Kalakaua held a spectacular coronation ceremony here with complete with feasts, balls, parades, military drills, and to the consternation of local missionaries -- hula dancing. It was only one of many gala events staged by the king who had become known as the "Merry Monarch." With the palace, gala events, and other projects, Kalakaua hoped to "awaken in the people a national pride." But the Hawaiian race was dying, American businessmen in Honolulu were increasing their influence, and American overseers in government were growing weary of the king's "aristocratic nonsense." The national pride that Kalakaua encouraged never evolved, and the palace actually became disliked.

In 1893, just two years after Kalakaua died and Queen Liliuokalani assumed the monarchy, a bloodless coup supported by American businessmen and legislators ended the monarchy. The palace furniture, collections, and accessories of the royalty were given away or auctioned off. The building itself was turned into an office building for the Republic of Hawaii, then later the Territory of Hawaii. It wasn't until the new state capitol was completed in 1969 that restoration of the deteriorating palace began. A lot of the furniture and possessions of the royalty have been reclaimed, and Iolani Palace is now open to the public for viewing approximately as it appeared during its heyday.

19. Barracks on the Palace Grounds

The barracks built in 1870-71 were designed to accommodate the Royal Household Guards. It was later used by the National Guard of the Republic, later still by the Hawaii National Guard, and then as a government office building. Currently it contains the Iolani Palace Ticket Office and Palace Shop. The building was originally located on the site of the present state capitol building. In 1965 it was moved "stone by numbered stone" to its current location next to Iolani Palace.

20. Bandstand on the Palace Grounds

The bandstand on the grounds of Iolani Palace is a "version" of a pavillion used by King Kalakaua at his coronation in 1883. The original pavillion was positioned directly in front of the palace entrance during the coronation. A bridge connected the main floor level of the palace to the pavillion so no steps were needed for the king, queen, and their attendants to reach the place where the actual coronation took place. After the coronation, the pavillion was moved to the location of the present bandstand. The Royal Hawaiian Band frequently performed in the pavillion, and it became known as simply a bandstand.

In 1919 it was "restored" to such an extent that it barely resembles the original. The wood columns were replaced with concrete columns, the octagonal dome was altered, etc. It has since undergone a number of other restorations.

21. Downtown Post Office

22. Ali'iolani

Directly across King Street from Iolani Palace in the Judiciary Building, named Ali'iolani. It was designed in 1869 by an Australian architectural firm and was intended to be a residence for King Kamehameha V and his successors. Kamehameha, however, had little interest in the "trappings of royalty" and directed his Department of Public Works to modify the plans for the interior to accommodate the courts and other government agencies. Kamehameha laid the cornerstone, but it was King Kalakaua who opened the building in 1874.

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